A recent report from the Swedish CCC, Rena Kläder, shows that the footwear industry is loaded with the same 
human rights and environmental problems seen in the garment industry. Despite this fact, few shoe companies on the Swedish market themselves manage to attain the ethical requirements that they demand of their suppliers.

The German-based purchasing organisation ANWR, whose membership includes many minor Swedish shoe shops and whose own labels include Crispin, Lino Moda and Sidewalk, stands out as the biggest laggard. ANWR does not take responsibility for working conditions and the environmental impact of its contract suppliers. Its ethical requirements apply only to suppliers producing for its own labels and cover only the prohibition of exploitation, slave-like conditions or forced labour, exploitation of prisoners, danger to the health of children, and use of certain hazardous chemicals. These standards fall far short of internationally recognised labour standards.
In addition to ANWR, companies reviewed in the report include the five other major players in Swedish footwear: Eurosko, Vagabond, Nilson Group, Scorett and Ecco. The Eurosko Group includes Skokanonen and Wedins and the Nilson Group includes Din Sko, Jern, Skopunkten, Nilson and Radical Sports.
The report presents the major problems in the footwear industry regarding labour and environmental standards: wages that are impossible to live on; extremely long hours; violations of the right to organise in trade unions and bargain collectively; harassment; and child labour. Moreover, the use of hazardous chemicals during different stages of footwear production poses a major environmental problem and a major health hazard to workers. Chemicals that remain in finished shoes can also be dangerous for those who wear them. The biggest flaw identified in the report is the companies’ insufficient monitoring of suppliers. Scorett, Vagabond and Eurosko conduct no social audits on working conditions or the environment in their supplier factories. Nilson Group makes its own inspections of direct suppliers, but working hours and wages are not included. Ecco makes no unannounced audits and does not meet with workers outside the workplace. None of the companies works with trade unions or non-profit organizations in the follow-up or have an environmental certification for their production.

The report recommends that all shoe companies focus on trade union rights, develop complaint mechanisms and sustainable audits, and sign a global framework agreement with the ITGLWF. They should also pay a living wage, improve the environment and the 
working environment, and offer 
transparency.

www.renaklader.org